Studio Lighting for Small Spaces.
This is the first of a series of lighting tutorials. I think it’s a good idea to understand the basics of something. Learn the rules first and then later break with impunity.
I offer this lesson freely from the bottom of my heart the world in general because, quite frankly, bad lighting makes me cranky.
What is high key lighting? Sister and I basically agree with the concept. high key lighting produces relatively shadow-free images with a “blown” bright white background.
At this juncture, perhaps it is wise to bend an old adage saying “one picture is worth a thousand words.”
Basically, get a high key shot on a white background, or a role usually seamless cyc (Cyclorama) wall, but can also be against a simple white wall or other similar white background. The purpose of this tutorial is lighting small spaces, so a wall cyc were not part of the equation.
First implementation. See the illustration below.
For the purposes of this tutorial, I will assume you are using 9-foot seamless white paper background and a four light setup. You can, if desired, do it with a light installation, 3 and I will discuss that at the end of this lesson.
* It takes two lights to enlighten the background. Put about 2-3 feet away from the bottom and aimed
them at 45 degree angle towards the bottom, as shown in the diagram.
* Put your main light, which is light provides illumination in the general subject, a subject side, about 5
feet away, also on a 45 degree angle to them.
* Place the fill light opposite the key light, subject to the same distance and same angle.
* To get a real blow, white background, you must set the backlight at least one f-stop over your lighting
theme. For example, I prefer to photograph my subjects in f/11, so I set my backlight at F/16. In larger
spaces, where the subject could be further from the bottom, you can go up to 2 or 3 stops on the
lighting issue. In small places there is always the danger of outbreak degrading strobe edges of your
subject. There are ways to avoid this problem, gobos etc., but are often difficult to use in a smaller
space.
Personally, the light meter for my object to produce a general scenario f/11, which usually means my key light set f/8-8.5 and my fill light is set at 5 , 6, respectively. Of course, all these values depend on the type of lights you have and the degree of control it has on its production. This is where a good light meter comes into play that I used a Minolta Auto Meter as this for years and have been very pleased with its reliability and accuracy.
90950" title="Portrait Lighting Photography tutorial" url="http://fineartphotographysite.com/portrait-lighting-photography-tutorial/">
